Our Products require a little care and maintenance to keep them looking their best. We would love for our furniture to be enjoyed for many years by you and your family. Please see our recommended care instructions below for more guidance, but if you have any questions please get in touch with your closest showroom for more advice.

Most of our furniture is made from solid timber. We use European Oak, American Oak, Elm, Birch, Ash, Asian Walnut and Beech.

As a natural product, all timbers respond to environmental conditions such as changes in temperature and humidity. It can expand and contract, warp and split if exposed to extreme heat sources such as open fires, gas heaters, heavily air-conditioned environments, direct sunlight and prolonged contact with moisture. Please be careful when moving your furniture as dragging it across the floor will cause damage to the joints. Both of our surface treatments - polyurethane lacquer and vegetable based oil provide some protection from sunlight and stains, but there are additional measures you can take to care for your furniture.

The majority of our range is lacquered with a light polyurethane coating that seals the wood and provides some protection against liquid penetration, stains and hot dinnerware. The resulting hard layer of lacquer gives our furniture a satin finish. Lacquered furniture doesn't need to have wood oils applied and it can be washed with warm mild soapy water. Though the lacquer is durable, we still recommend people use placemats on tables and try to avoid spillages, because the more water and soap that is applied to the table over the years the more the surface will gradually become dull in appearance.  Avoid harsh chemicals and dropped hard/sharp objects onto your lacquered furniture, this will cause the surface layer of lacquer to crack requiring full restoration by sanding and re-lacquering, which is big job.

Got extension leaves for your dining table? Store these flat, in a cool dry place when not in use to prevent warping.

Some of our range has an oiled finish, which is a very natural look as the oil brings out the warmth and depth in the grain of the wood. It penetrated into the timber, which gives the furniture protection against stains and sun damage from the inside, rather than from an outside layer. Oiled furniture requires more maintenance - we would recommend oiling your furniture 1 to 2 times a year with a good quality vegetable-based oil to hydrate and protect the timber.  The Modern can provide you with a small amount of a suitable, Australian made oil on request, and we also sell larger amounts for long-term maintenance.

Oiled furniture scratches and stains more easily than lacquered surfaces, but the positive side is that you can repair a small area without having to sand the entire piece. A customer can do these repairs at home by sanding and oiling the affected area. Do not use strong cleaning detergents on oiled furniture, as these can react negatively with an oiled finish leaving a mottled appearance or cracks. Lastly we recommend people use placemats on tables, try to avoid spillages and wipe up any liquids immediately.

Got extension leaves for your dining table? Store these flat, in a cool dry place when not in use to prevent warping.

How to oil a piece of furniture:
Place a protective sheet underneath your furniture to catch any drips. Always follow the instructions on the oil container and test the oil in an inconspicuous place.

First sand with fine sandpaper (400 grit) along the grain of the piece to make the surface smooth.
Using a small amount of oil, sparingly apply the wood oil evenly with a dry cloth.
Wait until the surface is completely dry and repeat the oil application. Leave this second coat to partially dry for 10 - 20 minutes, and wipe any excess oil from the surface.
Buff the area with a clean dry cloth, then leave the furniture before using it for a least 24 hours.
Always wash your cloth thoroughly in water afterwards, as oily rags left in clumps can self-combust.

As a natural product, all leathers respond to environmental conditions such as changes in temperature and humidity. Good quality leather when looked after well will last a lifetime and develop a beautiful patina that looks better with age. Taking care of your leather products will avoid any drying out or cracking that damages the look and feel. Some softening and marking of hides is normal and should be expected.

All of the leather used in the manufacturing of our furniture is full grain leather. This means it is 100% leather and not bonded leather (also known as 'constituted leather') which is a mix of leather and paper/fibre pulp adhered to an acrylic backing and finished with a polyurethane coat. 

Full grain leather can have different thicknesses depending where the hide taken from the animal. The thickness, pores, smoothness and patina will vary on different pieces of furniture and between manufactured batches. Colour can also vary, so if you are purchasing more than one matching leather item we will strongly advise you to purchase from the same batch.

How to care for Full Grain Leather:

Leather should be wiped regularly with a warm damp cloth to remove dust and dirt, which can affect the surface over time.
For stains you can spot clean with a good leather cleaner and a colourfast cloth. Meanwhile to treat for difficult stains we recommend contacting a specialist leather cleaner.
To nourish and hydrate your leather, we recommend using a good leather conditioner designed for full grain leather every 6 months or so to restore a soft and natural feel. Always read the instructions on the container and test products on a small inconspicuous area first.

Tinted conditioner can restore the colour to leather that has faded from over exposure to sunlight. This can be done by you, or by a professional leather cleaner.

You can add further protection to full grain leather by having it Microsealed (more information here). This permanent, non-toxic and natural application penetrates the fibres of the leather and will prevent stains and provide UV protection, which slows down fading. Protection will also prevent damage from body oils and make the leather easier to clean.

Some of our furniture is made for aniline leather, which is a full grain leather that has been dyed with soluble dyes rather than cover the surface with a topcoat (which is known as 'pigmented leather'). This results in a product that retained the natural grain of the hide, producing the most natural looking leathers. Aniline leather is considered the purest and best quality leather as the very best hides are selected to produce this effect. It is characterised by the individual markings and tonal changes of an animal hide.

Scratches and small marks are more commonplace in aniline leathers because there is no protective coating on the hide's surface. Normal usage and wear will cause these, so marking is not a fault and is considered a unique and attractive feature of aniline leather that develops a beautiful aged patina over the years. Aniline leather has no UV properties, making it more susceptible to fading as the dye are affected by sunlight. It is therefore extremely important to avoid exposure of your furniture to harsh UV light.

How to care for Aniline Leather:

Leather should be wiped regularly with a warm damp cloth to remove dust and dirt, which can affect the surface over time.
For stains you can spot clean with a good aniline leather cleaner and a colourfast cloth. Meanwhile to treat for difficult stains we recommend contacting a specialist leather cleaner.
To condition and re-hydrate your leather, we recommend using a good leather conditioner designed for aniline leather every 6 months or so to restore a soft and natural feel. Always read the instructions on the container and test products on a small inconspicuous area first.

Tinted conditioner can restore the colour to leather that has faded from over exposure to sunlight. This can be done by you, or by a professional leather cleaner.

You can add further protection to full grain leather by having it Microsealed (more information here). This permanent, non-toxic and natural application penetrates the fibres of the leather and will prevent stains and provide UV protection, which slows down fading. Protection will also prevent damage from body oils and make the leather easier to clean.

Our fabrics are a combination of synthetics and cotton. They are all selected for their durability and easy care requirements. To care for your fabric we recommend having your sofa or chairs Microsealed (more information here) to provide extra protection against dirt, dust, body oils, stains and UV fading. Microsealing is a permanent, non-toxic and natural application so it can take place in your home and your furniture can be used straight away.

Caring for Upholstery Fabric:

Keep your fabric upholstery out of harsh sunlight and avoid contact with liquids.

Vacuum your furniture regularly and treat stains immediately by sponging warm water onto the affected area, do not rub or treat with harsh cleaners.

Many of our upholstery covers are removable. If your cushion or seat covers can be removed you can have them dry-cleaned. If they are not removable it is best to have specialist upholstery cleaners service them once a year.

What is pilling?

Is your fabric looking a little fuzzy or matted? This is an effect commonly known as 'pilling' and might cause concerns that something is wrong with it. Luckily, it is completely normal and easily fixed - let's learn more about it and how to keep your fabrics looking great!

Pilling is considered normal in fabric - it is not a fault or a sign of an inferior product. It often occurs during the settling stages of a new item (3 to 4 months) and is the process of a new fabric 'shedding' fibres. Fibres also transfer between fabrics (such as throws, pillows or even clothing) which means that pilling may present itself later in the life of your furniture too.

The good news is that pilling can be successfully and easily removed using a battery operated de-pilling device. De-pilling only removes the surface fibres causing the fuzz and does not affect fabric performance. Add de-pilling to your regular maintenance of spot cleaning, vacuuming and then a light run of the de-pilling device.

If you are concerned about pilling or any maintenance of your fabric, the best thing to do is contact your nearest showroom to have a chat with our friendly showroom staff. They are also able to give you the best advice about fabric options in our range that will best suit your home and your needs before you buy.

BAYLISS 

Bayliss Rugs is an family operated business that was established in 1938. Their rugs are handmade in India using high quality fibres like New Zealand wool, linen, silk, jute, sisal, hemp and viscose to ensure their rugs are both highly functional and beautiful.

WARWICK WEAVE 

Weave is Warwick's brand that specialises in creating artisan handmade rugs known for their exquisite quality and unique design. Their ongoing commitment to ethical and sustainable practices also means that all rugs are made using natural materials, such as wool, cotton and jute, which are carefully sourced from around the world. 

RUG CARE AND MAINTAINANCE 

We recommend taking the following preventive measures to ensure that customers enjoy their new rug to the full extent for a long time.

• Turn over the rug – Rugs that can be used on both sides should be turned over at least once a year. This extends its useful life. 

• Rotate the rug – It is best to rotate the rug to ensure even wear and the uniform appearance of the surface.

• Vacuum cleaning – Dust dirt particles can be removed effectively before they become embedded in the pile by thoroughly vacuuming the rug as necessary (caution: clean only with a flat nozzle, without the brush attachment).

• Where the rug is placed will have an effect on the longevity and look of the rug over time. Exposure to direct sunlight over long periods can cause the colour of a rug to fade.

• Do not keep your rugs in damp areas, as mold will appear on it.

POP UPS  

Pop-ups are another completely normal characteristic of flat-woven rugs. Handwoven rugs are made by weaving the yarn back and forth across the loom until the piece of yarn ends. In all carpet and rug weaving, these threads are tucked in as the new piece of yarn is started.

Basically, a pop-up is when the very end of the yarn works its way loose. They should not be considered a fault, or a reason for return. Pop-ups can either be left alone, gently cut off, or pushed back into the structure of the rug.

CARE BY MATERIAL   

Wool – Pilling/shedding is a natural characteristic of rugs that contain wool. Vacuum as necessary and rug rotation is recommended. Avoid pulling fibres from surface pile and trim excess fibres back to surface pile. Clean spills immediately by blotting (not rubbing) with a clean sponge or cloth.

Viscose – Viscose never has the same appearance after it has come in contact with moisture/spills. Clean spills immediately by blotting (not rubbing) with a clean sponge or cloth, do not rub.

Natural fibres – Sisal, jute, hemp rugs will change over time especially when exposed to sunlight. Regular vacuuming is the best practice to keep the fresh appearance of a natural fibre. Visible and loose dirt should be vacuumed with a strong brush-suction vacuum. Do not use the beater bar on these rugs. Natural fibres never have the same appearance after they have come in contact with moisture/spills.

MICROSEAL   

We recommend Premium Surface Protection for their rug protection formulas: MicroSeal and Fiber ProTector.

They are experts in their field on all things relating to fibre and surface protection. We recommend that once receiving their new rug customers have it treated. To organise Microsealing, please contact your nearest showroom.

Animal hides are great for high traffic areas because they are durable and naturally stain and sun resistant but they require some care and cleaning from time to time.  They will still fade slightly if they are in direct and harsh UV light for any length of time so try to avoid sunlight and rotate them every few months.  Please vacuum regularly or take them outside to beat with a broom to remove loose dust and dirt. 

Spills

Mop up any excess liquid with a paper towel or colourfast cloth immediately and push any thick or solid matter off the hide with the blunt edge of a knife in the direction of the hair, try not to push any nasty accidents deeper into the leather.  For stains please blot the hide with warm water and a cowhide safe detergent.  It is important when looking for a cowhide safe detergent to use one that is non alkaline as this maintains the PH balance of the hide, many brands of organic shampoo are non alkaline.  Alternatively, you can use 1 part white vinegar to 5-10 parts warm water.  White vinegar maintains the PH balance of a hide and removes any bad odours from the rug.  Allow to dry at room temperature.

For really tough stains please use a specialist rug cleaning service.

FOAMS AND INSERTS

Back and seat cushion inners will soften and conform to the shape of your body over time.  We recommend rotating all seats and cushions if possible to distribute the cushioning evenly.  Cushions need to be ‘plumped up’ regularly to maintain their appearance and shape.

PAPER CORD

Some of our dining chairs are upholstered with paper cord. Paper cord is a 3 ply paper product that is commonly used to weave a seat on Danish furniture.  It is very strong and can last many years with normal use but it has no surface finish. Overtime through exposure to UV it will change appearance and age beautifully if cared for correctly. Paper cord can be protected with Microsealing ( microseal.com.au ).  This will provide protection against dirt, body oils and UV light.

Cleaning is best done with a solution of 1 TBS of white soap flakes (like Lux) in 1 litre of warm water. Use a soft cloth and wash gently, it is important that the papercord is not drenched in the solution and that it is moistened evenly to avoid staining as the surface dries. Without rinsing allow the furniture to dry at room temperature so the soap solution is absorbed into the paper cord.

Repeat the process if the cord is badly soiled.

For harsh stains please use a specialist upholstery cleaner.

MARBLE

Our Marble coffee tables and side tables are made from hand polished marble so the surface has a handmade and uneven appearance.  The variations in tone and the individual markings in the surface of the marble are not a fault but a characteristic of this natural product.  Marble is a porous material so it is important that you use coasters and placemats and avoid liquid sitting on the marble for any length of time.  Wipe up spills immediately and clean regularly with a warm damp cloth and soapy water.

GLASS

We use strong safety glass for our coffee tables, though it is very durable all glass can scratch if impacted with a sharp object.  Please clean regularly with a lint free cloth and a reliable glass cleaning product.

Printed Fabrics – 100% cotton or linen

Fabrics should be washed separately at 60 degrees celsius before sewing to remove any excess dye and to accommodate a small amount of shrinkage in both the cotton and the linen. Use a detergent that does not contain any bleach or brightening agents.  Soaking is not recommended as colour may bleed onto light areas.  Marimekko does not recommend dry cleaning the fabric to ensure the original appearance is maintained. Excessive sunlight will eventually fade colours.

 Marimekko fabrics are printed using either a flat bed or rotary printing method.  Printing large print fabrics using the flat bed method leaves a repeat line at the end of the pattern and the prominence of this line depends on the fabric’s colour and pattern.  The repeat line is not a flaw but a feature of the printing technique.

Printed Fabrics - PVC coated fabrics

The easy-care phthalate free PVC-coated fabrics are intended for indoor use. Wipe off strong-coloured stains (such as carrot, tomato, berries, ink, sauces) immediately to prevent the stain from adhering to the porous coating. If the reverse side of the fabric becomes soiled, we recommend machine wash at 40 degrees celsius. Avoid using fast spin cycle. Do not soak, because printed colours may bleed. As Marimekko want their products to be as environmentally safe as possible, they have started to use only wax chemicals soluble in water. Please, remember that continuous machine-wash weakens the waxing, as water-soluable wax dissolves somewhat in washing. The fabric can be steam ironed on the reverse side.

Cotton Bedding

The printed cotton bed linen should be washed separately in plenty of water at 60 degrees Celsius the first few times to remove any excess dye that may have remained on the fabric surface. A slight change in size, not exceeding 5%, may occur in the first wash.